Wood grouse

(Recipe #13, page 149)

Only young birds should be roasted. With rare exceptions, older birds remain tough even if they are buried in a sack for 8–10 days under 2–3 feet of soil (the recommended way of tenderizing the flesh); they are best used in a ragout or fricassee. Stuff the bird with the following stuffing: mince a piece of good veal with some raw ham, including the fat; add a few egg yolks, a couple of ground cloves, some crème fraîche, salt, white bread crumbs, and the beaten egg whites. Mix thoroughly, stuff the grouse, and roast like turkey.

Translated by David Green.

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Espagnole sauce

(Recipe #2a, page 148)

To make an Espagnole sauce, cover the bottom of a deep casserole with fresh butter to half the thickness of a finger, top it with a pound of sliced lean raw ham, followed by 3–4 large sliced Spanish onions, a loin of veal, 2 old partridges or 2 old pigeons, an old hen, and some scraps of raw or cooked fowl. Pour in two ladles of meat stock and place the casserole over low heat, letting the combination cook down and turn light brown, but being careful not to let it scorch. Then fill the casserole with bouillon, bring it to a boil, degrease it completely, add a few carrots, leeks, and parsnips, and simmer slowly. Continue reading

Quick pastries made from leftover meat

(Recipe #24, page 123)

Chop leftover roast veal or other similar meat quite fine together with some fatty meat (ham can be used), add nutmeg, salt, a knob of butter, a few eggs, parsley (or some minced shallots or onions) and stir over heat to form a smooth, not too stiff, forcemeat.

Grate the crust off rolls or rusks, cut off a slice, and carefully hollow them out. Stuff them with the forcemeat, tie them together or pierce them with a small wooden skewer and cover with the cut-off slice. Place them in the oven in a pan in which milk and butter have been heated and baste frequently; when the liquid has been absorbed, continue to baste with butter and meat gravy until the pastries have slightly browned.

Translated by David Green.

Pie using leftover ham (very good)

(Recipe #10, pages 120 – 121)

1 pound of fine flour, 6 ounces of butter, one egg, 1/8 quart thick sour cream. Make a dough using a knife, cut it into several portions, and roll each out as thin as possible. Butter a springform pan or iron casserole and spread the dough out in it. Finely chop cooked ham together with some fat (the last of the ham can be used) and an onion. The portion should fill a deep plate. Continue reading

Salmi of snipe, prairie chicken, fieldfares, and wild duck

(Recipe #165, page 117)

Line a kettle with a few slices of fresh ham, place the birds on top of it, and add a little salt, a few carrots, a few sliced shallots or onions, and butter. Cook the birds tightly covered until they begin to brown; add good meat stock, and continue cooking until the birds are quite tender. Then use a sharp knife to divide the birds into small dainty pieces, pound what cannot be divided into pieces in a mortar along with the lungs, liver, and ham, and strain it through a sieve with the broth. Add some chopped shallots and a pinch of pepper to this gravy and bring it to a boil with the meat.

Strictly speaking, the gravy for a salmi should be thickened only by the meat stirred with it, but other techniques may be used.

Translated by David Green.

Steaks made from raw smoked ham

(Recipe #116, page 105)

After cutting off all the skin and the tough rind of a raw smoked ham, take all the meat that should not be brought to the table (for example because it would be dry and tough) and soak it in water for a day and overnight in milk. Then mince it as fine as possible with any salt that is still needed, form it into steaks about an inch thick, dip them in egg with some pepper, turn them in zwieback crumbs, and fry as described above.

If you want these steaks to be very tender, slowly fry them covered up to 1½ hours, occasionally adding a little boiling water.

Translated by David Green.

Ham toasts

(Recipe #110, page 104)

Mince enough leftover ham with some additional fat to fill a soup bowl; mix thoroughly with 3 eggs, a few crumbled zwiebacks, and some pepper. Meanwhile soak slices of white bread in milk and eggs, cover them with the meat, smooth the tops, dredge with crumbs of zwieback or white bread, and brown lightly in butter. Delicious when served with a salad as well as all kinds of leafy vegetables and beans.

Translated by David Green.