(Recipe #10, pages 68 – 69)
Select very small potatoes of uniform size and as close to round as possible; peel and wash them, boil until half done, and drain dry.
Immediately mix equal parts of butter and good fat in one or two saucepans previously scoured thoroughly with salt and allow to brown over moderate heat. Lay the steaming potatoes side by side and cover tightly.
Turn the potatoes when they begin to brown and cover them again until they are quite tender; cook them uncovered until they have browned uniformly—dark but not burned.
To bring the potatoes to the table looking smooth and attractive, avoid stirring and crumbling them with a fork while they are cooking; the best way to turn them is with a narrow spatula. Dusting sugar over the potatoes while they are roasting gives them a slight glaze.
If the boiling potatoes are accidently cooked soft instead of half done, place only the whole potatoes (not including any broken ones) in the browned butter and brown them uncovered.
If unpeeled potatoes are to be roasted (though they are not nearly as mild and tasty), boil them in salted water until they are done, peel them while they are hot and place them as hot as possible in a pan and brown them uncovered, turning frequently.
If the potatoes have been boiled and peeled previously and set aside until it is time to brown them, or if leftover cold potatoes are to be browned, as is often the case in restaurants, they will be found to be hard and almost inedible.
Many prefer potatoes pan roasted raw to all others; they are more delicate and tasty than any others. Again, select small round potatoes of uniform size, wash them thoroughly and dry them well, and roast them in a covered pan with lots of butter until done; otherwise proceed as described above.
Translated by David Green.